2017 DIVERGENT, Hogan Wines. Western Cape, South Africa

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan; the second of these fermented as whole bunches. All matured for a year in old French oak barrels.

Jocelyn Hogan is an outstanding young winemaker based in the beautiful Banghoek Valley, just off the road from Stellenbosch to Franschhoek. She has no winery, renting space from others, and simply buys small lots of grapes from vineyards she knows, in order to make a small selection of individual, genuinely hand-crafted (an over-used term) wines.

This is Joceyln’s homage to Château Musar, following her visit to meet Serge Hochar there. It’s a similar blend of grapes and has a similar mix of savoury spicy and the tannic grip needed to ensure long ageing potential. For the moment it needs hearty food to do it justice.

“This unusual cuvée comes from Stellenbosch and Wellington. It’s a firm, floral, stony wine with plenty of acidity, notes of mint and wild herbs and a structured finish. Drink 2020-25. 91 points”. Tim Atkin MW.