2007 KREUZNACHER KRÖTENPFUHL SPÄTLESE, Dönnhoff. Nahe, Germany

The Nahe river may be less famous than the Rhine or Mosel, but its best wines are classically perfect Rieslings – an unmissable evocation of slatey minerality.

100% Riesling.

Helmut Dönnhoff is one of the greatest winemakers in Germany (and therefore the world). He makes dry, off-dry and fully sweet wines which all combine real concentration with beguiling delicacy. In 2005 he was ‘Wine Personality of the Year’ in Robert Parker’s ‘The Wine Advocate’.

Will keep for ever but just approaching full maturity now.

As usual, food is the ‘problem’ enthusiasts of off-dry and medium-dry German styles. The conventional wisdom is river fish, cream sauce, pork etc etc. But perhaps the best answer is to drink them solo (referring to food not friends). The low alcohol makes this no hardship.