2015 CHARDONNAY, Charles Heintz Vineyard, Littorai. Sonoma Coast, Cal.

Just a few miles from the (very) cool and windy Pacific Ocean, the western section of the Sonoma Coast appellation is the California ‘frontier’ of cool climate winemaking. This is one of several single vineyards from which Littorai buy grapes to make their wines. It’s an organically farmed site at 250 metres above sea level, six miles west of the Bodega Bay coastline, planted in 1983. Littorai have been sourcing the same seven rows of Charles Heintz Vineyard for eighteen years.

100% Chardonnay, fermented and matured in French oak (25% new wood) for 11 months; (10% of the wine is kept in steel throughout, to retain a little extra freshness).

Owned by a couple with an amazing pedigree. Heidi and Ted Lemon set up their own winery in 1993 after (for Ted) an oenology degree at Dijon University and experience at Roumier, Bruno Clair, Domaine Dujac and (as winemaker / vineyard manager) at Guy Roulot in Meursault; (and for Heidi) experience in Germany and then several wineries in California, including Robert Long and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.

OK this is very expensive. But it’s also very good. At a Burgundy / Chardonnay tasing in April 2018 at The Old bridge it was, by a distance, the very best wine shown.

94+ points, Antonio Galloni, vinous.com:
“The 2015 Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard is as always the most exotic of the Chardonnays in this range. Soft, creamy and oily on the palate, the 2015 exudes class. Apricot, chamomile, mint, peach and baked apple are some of the signatures. The flavors are remarkably vivid in the 2015.”